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Food Security

J.J. Rodríguez Jerez

Grisc – Grup de Recerca en Gobernança del Risc (UAB)

Additives and avant-garde cuisine

14 may 2010

Photo: somethingstartedcraz y

The controversy erupted when Santi Santamaría, one of the world's top-ranked chefs whose restaurant Can Fabes is one of the very few that can boast three Michelin stars, publicly remarked (and later published in his book La cocina al desnudo) that he believed that the current path of haute cuisine is not correct and that it could even reach the point of being dangerous to health. In particular, he pointed to methylcellulose as a clear example of potential harm.

Chef Ferran Adrià, feeling Santamaría’s comments were a direct shot at his experimental cuisine, responded immediately, indicating that this issue at the end of the day is best left to scientists and researchers. He added that science must come into the kitchen and speak in plain language so cooking professionals can understand what is a health risk and what is not. Basically, what the world-renowned chef meant was that culinary professionals need to be properly informed, but once it is determined that a product is not toxic, that it can be used depending on the creativity of each individual.

Adrià’s position is very clear, and it is correct from the point of view of many additives, because we know what the safe limit is to include these substances in foods. Consequently, if scientists and, even better, people engaged in food risk management are left to give their opinions freely, the acceptable limits of the use of chemicals can be determined and even monitored.

In reality, what provoked this controversy is that the entire world of avant-garde cuisine came out against Santamaría. In fact, Eurotoques España published a manifesto against the chef’s attitude. Catalonia’s Councilor of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs Joaquim Llena even entered into the discussion by insisting that methylcellulose did not pose a health risk. It is curious that it was the head of agricultural policy, and the head of health, who spoke out on the issue. It is also worth noting that Llena did not clarify whether the additives are used properly, that is, if all those used are officially approved and if there are used in the correct amounts.

Culinary professionals must be aware of the implications of the products they cook with, control the amounts added and, above all, make the consumer aware of their use Santamaría nuanced his position to clarify that additives can have undesirable consequences even if they are not toxic and argued that restaurant goers need to know what they are eating. One of the most active newspapers in this controversy has been El Periódico de Catalunya, which followed the story on a daily basis and even published a recipe by Santamaría with recommendations for the use of certain additives.

While this controversy eventually lost steam, it was not resolved, leaving a hint that some important doubts were not dispelled. In fact, there are still some questions hanging in the air: are additives used in cutting-edge cuisine? If the answer is yes, as we suspected it is, then are all those additives officially approved? And, what I think is perhaps the most critical issue, are these additives used in the proper concentration? And lastly, who monitors their use?

There may be more questions but, in essence, they would all deal with what we need to know to ensure the safety of haute cuisine. In fact, anyone who wants to produce food should take a long look at the ingredients, including, of course, any and all additives. These never appear on a restaurant menu, where the plates are described in broad strokes, but never with all the ingredients of the recipe.

Perhaps very few people are interested in a debate which appears to only affect those who can actually pay for a meal with such high price tags. How many people can afford to eat regularly at Santamaría’s or Adrià’s restaurants? But, it is wrong to think that this is only an issue that touches the economic elite.

In fact, the discussion is deeper than it seems. If avant-garde cuisine approves of the use of additives to achieve impossible textures, colors and tastes or anything that finally stimulates our senses, this will then be replicated at other levels of cooking in many different areas and facets. It is true that avant-garde cuisine is an art like few others, but it is also true that this art needs some controls placed on it.

The following example will be sufficient to illustrate this point. Today, you can buy gold or copper for cooking. In fact, it is common to have read in the press or seen on TV that precious metals are used in the preparation of some recipes. However, the abuse of these metals could cause health problems if too much is added or if they form oxides. Consequently, the fact that these metals may be used in food does not mean that they are harmless. Each has a maximum concentration that should be known and respected. This information not only ensures the health of potential consumers but also serves as an example to all consumers and chefs at various levels to not use foreign chemicals in bulk or without control.

This control, as of now, rests with the chef, who designs and controls the recipe. For this reason, culinary professionals must be aware of the implications of the products they cook with, control the amounts added and, above all, make the consumer aware of their use. Only then will we not fall into the temptation to use and abuse chemical ingredients that the consumer, surely, does not want to be employed in excess.

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1 comment

Ignasi 21/05/2010
Diu l'autor que el xef "ha de ser consciente de las implicaciones que tienen los productos que emplea, regular las dosis que aplica y, sobre todo, explicarlo", com si no ho fessin! Sembla mentida com es pot arribar a confondre encara més al lector sobre aquest tema!! Demagògia seva; resposat meves: ¿realmente se emplean aditivos alimentarios en la cocina de vanguardia? Clar que sí, com a tota la cuina!!! Si es que sí la respuesta, como sabemos, entonces, ¿están todos esos aditivos autorizados? Sí, sinó no els podrien utilitzar! Por último, y creo que es lo más interesant, ¿se utilizan en concentraciones adecuadas? ¿Quién lo controla? Sí, en condicions adequades, legals i supervisades per les autoritats competents en la matèria, igual que en tots els altres restaurants i productors d'aliments i ingredients, siguin de vanguardia o no!!! Sembla mentida... Algú regula l'utilització de termes, conceptes i preguntes que busquen provocar pànic en el lector a través d'articles pseudocientífics i pamfletaris??

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